Mont Saint Michel and Chartres

In my second year at Dominican College, I took a course called Readings in Medieval Philosophy. One of the books I read for that class was Henry Adams’ Mont Saint Michel and Chartres. In the book, Adams describes the history of these places, gives detailed sketches of their architecture, and explains how they reflect the philosophy of their time. I found it a fascinating read the second time around (I had to write two papers on it, so I read it more than once) – the first time I got a bit bogged down with all the architectural details, but in subsequent readings, the history and philosophy stood out much more. Since reading this book I began to dream of one day visiting Mont Saint Michel and Chartres. On this trip, Brendan made sure that those dreams would come true.

I woke up very excited on January 5^th. As we drove towards the coast, I spotted the tower of Mont Saint Michel in the distance and felt all electric inside – it was like Christmas morning as a kid! We stopped several times on the side of the road to take pictures of the mount as we approached. I could hardly believe we were actually there – it looked even more mystical than in the countless pictures I had seen. The base of the mount is full of tourist shops and restaurants, which we passed quickly on our way up to the abbey. The top of the mount offers a beautiful view of the ocean, which in times past made Mont Saint Michel an island at high tide (and thus a virtually impenetrable fortress). We decided to rent an audio guide for the abbey, to make our visit as engaging as possible. I’m glad we did, as it certainly helped us to appreciate the history and architecture of this impressive place.

A highlight for both of us in our visit was the unexpected opportunity to attend Mass with the religious who live there. The Benedictine Abbey on Mont Saint Michel was originally constructed in the 8^th century, but since then it has seen much renovation and varied residents (it was used as a prison during the French Revolution). Fortunately, its religious purpose has now been restored. The community Les Fraternités Monastiques de Jérusalem have been there since 2001. I knew there were religious living there again, but it had not crossed my mind that we might have the good fortune to celebrate Mass with them. As we entered the main chapel, we saw a sign indicating that Mass had begun in one of the crypts. Brendan suggested we go down, even if we were a bit late. As we walked down to the crypt, we were met with a chorus of both male and female voices, singing hymns in harmony. It was beautiful. As it turned out, Mass had not yet begun, so we were able to attend the whole thing. At the sign of peace the religious turned around to greet the visitors, and smiles abounded at the sight of Liam. He received blessings, kisses, and looks of love from eyes full of God. Witnessing their delight in my little son brought me to tears. The Holy Spirit was thick in the room, and my heart brimmed with gratitude.

The crypt where we attended Mass

We continued our tour of the abbey after Mass, losing ourselves in centuries past. It was better than I hoped it would be. As we left Brendan asked me how it felt to have a dream come true. Good. It felt really good.

The main chapel

Cloister

Brendan is touching the rock of the mount
upon which the abbey is built

We had a lunch of crepes at a restaurant on the mount and then got back on the road, headed towards Chartres – another place I had dreamed of seeing. The drive was long and since we would be arriving in the evening, our cathedral visit was planned for the next day.

Chartres Cathedral is famous for its exquisite stained glass windows. Before reading about it in Henry Adams’ book, I had learned of its beauty from George Weigel’s Letters to a Young Catholic. Weigel takes the reader to various places of particular significance to Catholics and uses the features of the place to describe some aspect of the faith. It’s a well-written and insightful book, and a good source of ideas for places to visit! In the letter from Chartres, Weigel talks about the Catholic notion of beauty – a most fitting topic for such a magnificent place. Once again, Brendan and I took advantage of audio guides to enrich our visit. Each stained glass window and sculpture at Chartres tells a story, and it was nice to have a guide which explained the significance of the images. Chartres’ reputation for beauty is certainly merited – the craftsmanship displayed there is astounding. It is a place of light and colour, which speaks clearly of the glory of God. I felt privileged to be there, and once again, very very grateful.

Caen & Bayeux

We began our journey through Norman history in Caen, where William the Conqueror had once lived. He lived in the castle there, which we visited, and had an abbey built on either side of it – Abbaye aux Hommes and Abbaye aux Dames. Apparently these abbeys were built in exchange for papal approval of his marriage – ah, politics! Besides having a decent castle and a couple nice churches, we also discovered that Caen is home to the most delicious apricot flan the world has ever known! We made it our little project to try a new French treat every day of our trip – a loathsome task, really, but one we bore patiently! Of all the treats we tried, that apricot flan was the most exquisite – if I had the chance, I’d go back to Caen just to have another piece! Our diet while traveling consisted mainly of sandwiches, so it was fun to add a little variety in the form of treats (although I can’t complain about the sandwiches – French bread & cheese and Brendan’s skill as a sandwicheur are an award-winning combination!).

Abbaye aux Hommes

Castle ruins

Waiting in the front seat while Daddy makes sandwiches in the back

The Sandwicheur!

From Caen we headed to Bayeux, home of the famous tapestry that chronicles the Norman conquest of England. I loved seeing the tapestry. It is displayed in a glass case, and is accompanied by an audio guide that explains its images. The embroidery is fascinatingly detailed, even to facial expressions. Its story is more Norman propaganda than historical fact, but it’s still fun to see a little embroidered William confront the armies of the English king. We learned the real story (or something closer to the real story, at least) in listening to the Norman Centuries podcast. The tapestry makes William out to be the rightful heir to the throne – in reality his entitlement was questionable. Still, had he not succeeded in overthrowing the king, our podcaster assures us that England’s relationship to the continent would be quite different today. After our visit to the tapestry museum we stopped by the church in Bayeux and then went back to the coast to see Omaha Beach (where the Americans landed). We then drove south to Avranches, where we spent the night before one of my most anticipated excursions: a visit to Mont Saint Michel.

Scene from the Bayeux Tapestry
(I found this photo online - we weren't allowed to take pictures in the museum)

Church in Bayeux - Roman ruins in the foreground

Rouen & D-Day Beaches

On Monday, January 3^rd, we woke up in Rouen and spent the morning exploring that city. Rouen is where Jeanne D'Arc was martyred – a strange modern looking church now stands on the site. It is also famous for its cathedral, which Monet painted in various lights. Unfortunately the cathedral was closed when we visited, due to open the next day! Another attraction in Rouen is its style of houses – the “maisons à pans de bois” (which Brendan loves). The style is distinctly Norman and very charming.

Jeanne D'Arc

Rouen Cathedral

Maisons à pans de bois

From Rouen we headed west, towards the D-Day beaches. After seeing WWI sites the previous day, we would now be visiting a most important place in WWII history. On the way we stopped briefly in Honfleur, the delightful port city from which Samuel de Champlain set sail for Canada.

Our drive that day was rather long, but Brendan had planned some entertainment: before we left on the trip he downloaded lectures and podcasts on various themes that related to our travels. We spent our driving hours listening to lectures on 20^th century French history and testimonies of men who had fought in WWII. I’m glad B had the idea to do this – it was a great way to learn more about the history of the places we visited. After our battlefield visits, we listened to a podcast called Norman Centuries, about the history of Normandy from the time of its Viking leaders. It was fascinating to hear about the exploits of the Vikings, and later of William the Conqueror and his successors, especially as we drove through the very places where they lived and ruled.

We reached the D-Day beaches just before dusk and got out of the car to walk along Juno, where the Canadians had landed. Again I was struck by how peaceful this place was compared to what it must have been like on June 6^th, 1944. I kept thinking of the opening scene of Saving Private Ryan and the utter chaos it portrays. Later that night we watched the scene – it was poignant to think that we had just walked on the land where these things took place.

At a military museum near the beaches

Lives lost in war like pebbles on the beach - innumerable.

Getting back into the car, we drove a little further to where the British had built a makeshift harbour by sinking boats in the shallow water. The Mulberry Harbour was eventually destroyed, but in the time it was operational, it saw traffic of astounding proportions – men, arms, supplies, etc.  It’s amazing what ingenuity can spring from necessity.

The black spots are what's left of Mulberry Harbour

We spent that night in Caen, which we would explore the next morning.  

Vimy & Beaumont-Hamel

We left Gladys & Carlo’s around midday on January 1^st to begin our ten-day road trip. We were both buzzing with excitement as we pulled out of Hoofddorp. Brendan had already seen many of the places we were planning to visit, having worked in France as a tour guide for two summers, but he was happy to have the opportunity to go back with his family. And of course I was thrilled to be visiting France for the first time!

Our first destination was Arras, where Brendan had spent his summers. He had worked as a tour guide at Vimy Ridge and Beaumont-Hamel, places of great significance for Canadian and Newfoundland soldiers in the Great War. Before arriving in Arras, we stopped at a memorial to victims of the Nazi regime in France – men killed for being part of the French resistance. The memorial is in the ravine where the executions happened  – a sad and eerie place. We also stopped at a Commonwealth War Cemetery. I had seen my first of these in Arnhem, Holland, and would see many more during our days in France. The fields of Northern France are scattered with First and Second World War cemeteries – so many battles were fought on that soil, and so many bodies now lie there in rest.  On our trip, we would be paying respects at several of them.

We arrived in Arras in the evening and spent a short while walking around the city. Brendan showed me the houses where he had lived both summers. I could tell he was excited to be back in this place of so many memories.

Grand Place, Arras

On Sunday morning we got up fairly early, and after enjoying a breakfast of pain au chocolat and cappuccino, we set out for Vimy. Because of Canada’s successful taking of Vimy Ridge in 1917, France has gifted our country with a large portion of the land on which the battle took place. It is now a beautifully kept memorial site, crowned with the iconic Vimy monument. Brendan quickly morphed back into tour guide and explained the battle to me in great detail. We walked through trenches, examined huge shell holes, and paid our respects at the monument. What struck me most about this site was the stark contrast between how beautiful it is now and how awful it must have been during the war. Today it is lush and green and peaceful – then it was a mess of mud, chaos, and death. The trenches lie as grass covered ruts in the ground, rolling smoothly into one another, and trees now grow where men had fallen, a gift of reparation from Austria and Germany. The land has largely healed but retains its scars, and remains a memento of human capacity for both violence and heroism.

The now-grassy trenches

Looking at the Allied line from a German trench - the two lines are astoundingly close

A sandbag trench on the Allied side 

The Vimy Ridge Memorial

After lunch and stops at French, German, and Canadian war cemeteries, we visited Beaumont-Hamel, where Newfoundlanders fought in the battle of the Somme. Many lost their lives on July 1^st, 1916 and though the Germans faired better on that fateful day, the balance would shift before the close of the battle 4 months later. Again, the land conceals the horrors of war, but not completely: grassy ruts, a stump representing the Danger Tree, cemeteries… It may sound strange that we spent our holidays visiting so many cemeteries, but we both feel it’s important to remember the past and pay our respects to those whose actions had such an impact on the unfolding of history.

Notre Dame de Lorette, a French war cemetery

German war cemetery (there are 4 names on each cross)

The Danger Tree at Beaumont-Hamel

We visited one more monument at Thiepval , a memorial to the 72,000 missing allied soldiers who fell in the battle, before heading on to our next destination. These soldiers still lie in the fields of the Somme making the entirety of the battlefield an unmarked cemetery. As we departed, we passed the village of Albert where Albert Ball (Britain’s greatest WWI pilot and Billy Bishop’s friend and rival) was shot down after returning from a mission.

We were to stay in Rouen that night, but stopped first in Amiens to go to Mass. Like so many French cities, Amiens is home to a beautiful gothic cathedral. We spent some time admiring it and taking in the city before Mass at a local parish. It was late by the time we reached Rouen and we foolishly stayed up even later to watch a movie! At least it was a good one, and appropriate for the theme of our day: The Red Barron, about a famous German pilot in WWI. 

Amiens Cathedral (from the back)

Façade of the cathedral

Happy New Year!

We are now back in Hoofddorp after a fantastic road trip through France. We'll be flying to Scotland tonight, and sleep in our own beds after three and a half weeks away. I now have the daunting task of reporting on our ten very full days on the road… it might take a while, but I promise to chronicle our trip in detail! So here goes…

I mentioned in the previous post that I imagined our dinner would last into the new year. Happily, I was right!  My mom likes to know what her kids eat when they’re not at home, so this is for her: we had baked brie topped with mango chutney, bread, and sausage as an appetizer, followed by lamb chops and greek salad, then steak and roast potato, pepper & onion. Brendan was responsible for most of this, while I made chocolate cake with caramel sauce for dessert. The meal was washed down with generous amounts of wine, rum & eggnog (Gladys’ homemade eggnog – I can now never go back to the sludgy store bought stuff!), and champagne. We began eating around 9pm and were still eating at 2am (with breaks between courses, naturally!).

Gladys & Carlo had told us that people around here (and elsewhere in Holland) set off fireworks from their yards on New Year’s Eve. We didn’t realize they meant nearly everyone participates in this activity for hours! I’ve never seen such a spectacular fireworks display. B and I were so excited we ran out onto the street with our champagne and laughed like little kids, watching the lights and shouting at one another over the deafening noise. It was awesome! I took a few pictures but they didn’t turn out – I guess a particular technique and the right kind of lens is required to capture fireworks. I thought of Danny and how much he would have loved this show – and imagined Maeve and William loosing their minds with excitement! It was very special to share this moment with my husband – a fantastic beginning to a year full of promise. When we had exhausted ourselves laughing & shouting outside, we went back in, skyped home to talk to family & friends gathered for the annual Cogan Ranch New Year’s Eve Party, had our delicious chocolate cake, and went to bed happy.

We decided this year to establish a family New Year’s Eve tradition of reflecting together on the blessings of the past year and sharing what we look forward to in the coming year. There was so much to be grateful for in 2010: our first year of marriage, each finishing a degree, all the wonderful people in our lives, having the opportunity to travel… and of course, the arrival of our precious little son. Liam has definitely made 2010 one of the most monumental years of our lives so far! As for the future, we are both looking forward to the next 4 ½ months in Stirling, doing a bit more travelling, then going home to Canada and making new plans for the future… these are exciting times for both of us, as we build a life together and enjoy our blossoming family, and we look forward with hope and anticipation to what lies ahead.

The delectable little shortbread cookies Gladys & I made on Dec 31st (following Grandma's recipe) 

Little buddy fell asleep in Daddy's arms...

Flowers from my hubby to celebrate the new year

My attempt at photographing the fireworks... kind of pitiful really...
but now imagine the whole sky full of light and you'll get an idea of what we saw!

The Hague & Amsterdam Part II

On Wednesday the 29^th, Brendan, Liam & I set out for The Hague. We spent a quiet morning at home and went in by train in the afternoon. We only had a few hours in the city so we decided to spend the time walking around rather than going into museums. We’ve both found that walking is the best way to see a city, to admire its architecture and get a feel for its atmosphere. Along our walk we saw the Dutch parliament, the queen’s palace (where she currently resides), as well as various churches and squares. The Hague feels much more spacious than Amsterdam, where the houses are all narrow and stuck together. It doesn’t have the same unique charm, but is still a nice city. That night Gladys & Carlo treated us to dinner at a restaurant by the lake across from their house. It was a delicious dinner and a lovely evening – yet another instance of the abundant generosity of our hosts!

Mauritshuis Gallery and Parliament

Self-portrait!

Liam in The Hague! 

On Thursday the 30^th we went back to Amsterdam for the afternoon. This time we took a canal boat tour, which offered a great view of the city. The tour lasted about an hour and took us through several of the main canals. After the tour we made our way to Anne Frank’s house, only to find that the line up to get in went all the way around the corner! I’ve noticed that long line-ups are a common occurrence in Amsterdam. Most of the major museums we saw had huge lines to get in – we were lucky to get into the Van Gogh museum so quickly. So rather than wait at Anne Frankhuis, we took a picture from the outside and continued on our way. Our plan was to explore the older part of the city and go to Rembrandt’s house, but after taking a break to feed Liam, we decided it was best to go home. I wasn’t feeling well, and since we still have the road trip through Normandy ahead of us, we thought it would be wise not push ourselves too hard. Liam had a bit of a meltdown that evening, but once he finally went to sleep we were able to relax and enjoy dinner and a movie with Gladys & Carlo.

Taken from the canal boat

House boat - people actually live in these!

Anne Frankhuis, where Anne and her family hid from 1942-44 

Today is a quiet day, which is definitely what we need before the next leg of the trip. Liam is back to his old self after being somewhat out of sorts yesterday, and I am taking the time to rest so as to beat this cold. Gladys taught me how to make Grandma’s shortbread this afternoon, but other than that, I’ve just been resting, writing, and playing with my boy. B & I will be making dinner for our hosts this evening. B has it all planned out and it’s promising to be quite a feast – one of those entire evening affairs. I suspect we’ll still be eating by next year!!!